In 2025, I was lucky enough to take two trips to Edinburgh — my first-ever visits to Scotland. And I have no shame in admitting how positively in love I fell with the city. A state I remain in to this day. To the extent that I could not resist returning in January as a birthday present to myself. The jewel in the crown of this trip? Dinner at a much-talked-about Thai restaurant called Chaophraya.

We weren’t fortunate enough to get a table with views of Edinburgh Castle by night. There’s a glass conservatory of sorts offering that vista, reserved for diners who book well enough in advance. Still, the main body of the restaurant offers plenty of Thai ambience. A relaxing place to sit while you await your menus.

Chaophraya (a sharing starter)

Platter of Thai Chicken tacos, tempura prawns, spring rolls, chicken satay skewers and a duck salad. A bowl of prawn crackers.The restaurant offers a diverse selection for all levels of Asian food lovers, including a couple of sharing platters. One of which shares its name with the venue itself. The Chaophraya sharing platter exhibits a handful of classics: chicken satay skewers, spring rolls and tempura king prawns, plus Thai chicken tacos and a crispy duck salad. There’s plenty going on in there to divide and conquer, and you’re still almost stuffed by the time you’re finished. It’s recommended for two people, but I wonder if three or more might be wiser.

Gaeng Massaman

I came to Chaophraya, as I so often do with Thai food, desperate for a Massaman curry. It should nearly always be lamb, unless one is watching one’s weight in which case they can settle for chicken. There would be no settling on this occasion — the diet started after we got back to England! One of my favourite things about a Massaman? It’s mild enough for everything to keep its flavour and texture, but hot enough to cause your nose to run and make you seem adventurous to your more pro-spice friends. Everything about this one was pretty much bang-on — melting sous vide lamb, tender veg, the odd crunch of a cashew. Brilliantly balanced. Delivered on all levels.

A Mystery Under a Smoking Dome

At Chaophraya, it’s not all about the food. There are specialist cocktails available as well. But I must confess a lapse in my professionalism as a reviewer: I forgot to note down the names of my choices. And, would you believe it, the latest copy of the cocktail menu isn’t available on their website. So, all I can give you is the description: a delightful golden concoction served with that classic of food theatre props: a glass dome full of smoke.

Based on memory alone, similar to their food menu, there’s a ton of choices for cocktails and mocktails. Suitable for all tastes.

Final thoughts on Chaophraya

This is a solid 9 out of 10 meal. The service was wonderfully friendly; especially for a restaurant as busy as this was. But as you’d expect for a place of its calibre, it’s somewhere for a special occasion, like a birthday. When you factor in multiple cocktails in addition to your food, even between two people, you can rack up a bill heading towards the £100 mark and beyond. Don’t get me wrong — it’s worth it!

To stay up to date with Expensive Tastes and other projects by Dale Hurst, follow on Instagram @dalehurst_author and sign up to The Writer’s Monocle newsletter.

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